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Skin Renewal Methods Used by Estheticians, Make Up Artists, Cosmetologists and Dermatologists
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Estheticians (The Angels of Skincare) and Dermatologists
Controlled Damage for Increasing Skin Turnover
Laser Re-surfacing
Types of Lasers and Their Use
Healing of Laser Treated Skin
Lasers for Acne Scar Removal
Chemical Peels
Chemicals Used
How is the Peel Performed?
Skin "Deep-Peeling" Disasters
Dermabrasion
What is Dermabrasion?
Potential Complications from Dermabrasion
Methods of Improving Healing After Skin Exfoliation or Damage
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Estheticians, Make Up Artists, and Cosmetologists (The Angels of Skincare) and Dermatologists

       Methods that cause strong skin renewal such as laser are usually performed by Estheticians or Dermatologists.

       Estheticians, Make Up Artists, and Cosmetologists - are often called The Angels of Skincare for their caring attitude about their clients. Their work on skincare is very similar to nurses in hospitals who do the minute-by-minute care of ill patients. In clinics, salons, and spas, estheticians usually perform peels, laser procedures, and dermabrasion.

       Dermatologist have extensive medical training and are trained in various cosmetic treatment procedures. They normally focus more attention on surgical procedures such a face lifts and curing skin diseases.

Controlled Damage for Increasing Skin Turnover

       Skin cell turnover and regeneration can be increased by controlled skin damage. This damage then triggers skin repair and renewal. Mild damage is usually termed "skin exfoliation" to differentiate this method from more vigorousmedical methods performed by physicianssuch as laser resurfacing chemical peels, and dermabrasion.

Clinical skin renewal has three stages:
 

Stage 1. Induction of skin damage.
Method Used
 Effect on skin
Potential Problems
Laser Burning of the Skin
Safe when performed by a 
trained aesthetician or dermatologist
Can cause burns and scars
Chemical Peels
Safe when performed by a 
trained aesthetician or dermatologist
Can cause burns and scars
Dermabrasion
Usually few problems 
Does not work on pitted scars

Stage 2. Skin Healing Phase.
        Skin damage is followed by healing and recovery. However, to get good results, it is imperative that skin healing progresses at a rapid pace. Increasingly, the stage of skin damage is followed by the use of skin remodeling copper peptides (SRCPs).

        Non-prescription skin regeneration accelerators are (1) Skin Biology's Protect & Restore ($21.95 for 2 ounces and $33.95 for 4 ounces) and CP Serum ($33.95), and (2) ProCyte Corporation's Neova ($65 for 2 ounces) at www.procyte.com.

        Prescription SRCPs used after laser resurfacing, dermabrasion, and chemical peelsinclude Complex Cu3® Intensive Tissue Repair Cream and Complex Cu3® Hydrating Gel sold by Procyte.

       There really is not much difference, except the prescription items are sold through dermatologists.Protect & Restore and CP Serum are actually more effective at helping skin renewal.

       Emu Oil works very well for calming irritated skin. After the skin is less sore and damaged, a SRCP followed by Emu Oil works very well to help remove scars and discolorations from the procedure.

       More specific information on copper peptides for post-procedure healing is at www.scar-reduction.com/postprocedureskinrecovery.html.

 Stage 3. Concurrent Cosmetic Surgery

        These skin renewal techniques are often combined with cosmetic surgery such as a facelift and focused liposuction. For example, for the front of the face, skin renewal techniques such as chemical peels or laser resurfacing work well to tighten the skin and remove blemishes. However, excessive skin sagging on the sides of the face often requires a partial facelift. Also, as we age, fat deposits increase in various areas such as under the eyes and under the chin. Liposuction techniques are used to remove fat from selected areas of the face to achieve a better overall result. An overview of cosmetic surgery techniques is given in the next chapter of this book.

Laser Re-surfacing

        Laser skin resurfacing is used to treat facial lines and wrinkles: lines on and around the lips, facial acne scars, areas of uneven pigmentation, pock marks, blemishes, warts, moles (with biopsy), sun-damage, actinic chelitis (pre-cancerous condition of the lips), and other facial abnormalities. The laser is used to create a controlled burn of the most superficial layers of the skin in order to stimulate the formation of new fibers, which are more organized and plentiful in number.

        Laser resurfacing may be performed under local anesthesia as an outpatient procedure or under general anesthesia when combined with other cosmetic procedures such as a face lift. Compared to alternate resurfacing methods, patients generally have a shorter recovery.

       The result after healing is skin of better tone and a refreshed and more youthful configuration. This process is most commonly used to remove fine lines especially around the eyes and mouth, and to soften the appearance of deep creases on the face.  It may be performed on the whole face or in a specific regions.  The subsequent healing provides a smoother, tighter, younger-looking skin surface, and a significant improvement in the quality of the skin.

        Lasers can be used for regional treatment, for example around the eyes and around the mouth, or can be used to treat the entire facial region. Laser treatment is not a total substitute for formal surgical face-lifting which is used to redrape and reposition tissues that have become loose over time. Surgery and  laser treatments are often used in combination during the same sitting to simultaneously treat both loose skin and fine wrinkles.

        Lasers are also used for lesion removal on the arms, legs, and shoulders, tattoo removal, and for lightening dark circles under the eyes.

Types of Lasers and Their Use

        Skin treatment lasers are in a evolutionary phase as improvements in the technology arrive yearly. Lasers emit different wavelengths of lights and energy dependent on the source. CO2 (carbon dioxide) lasers are older but more energetic and work well for deep wrinkle improvement.  Often the skin will tighten more than 25 percent. Crow's feet lines and eyelid sagging may disappear and make eyelid lift surgery (blepharoplasty) unnecessary.

        Newer lower-power erbium (a earth element of atomic number 68 and atomic weight 167) produces a wavelength with strong water heating properties but less damage to other skin molecules. Erbium lasers produce less heat damage and less patient discomfort. Erbium is preferred for treatment of much thinner skin layers which is important in younger persons and for thin skin such as the delicate skin on the neck and back of the hand. The erbium lasers works well around the eyes and upper lip and the perioral region

        Ruby lasers often work well for hair removal, amateur tattoos and multi-colored professional tattoos, aging spots (cafe au lait), and benign pigmented lesions.

        Laser resurfacing is performed using a laser beam which vaporizes the upper layers of damaged skin at specific and controlled levels of penetration. It is clear that laser resurfacing may offer a number of advantages over the other resurfacing methods: precision, little bleeding, little bruising, and less post-operative discomfort.

        The laser has advantages over traditional resurfacing methods like chemical peels and dermabrasion including a quicker recovery period and reduced patient discomfort. "Laserbrasion" can be programmed to use specified amounts of energy and for that reason brings much more control and safety to resurfacing procedures designed to deal with changes within the skin such as complexion abnormalities and fine lines and wrinkles.

        Laser resurfacing may be done under local anesthesia with intravenous sedation as an outpatient procedure or under general anesthesia when combined with other cosmetic procedures or if the whole face is to be treated. Compared to alternate resurfacing methods, patients generally enjoy a shorter recovery. There is redness and swelling but minimal discomfort throughout the treated region.

        For facial wrinkles, the area is often pre-treated with Retin-A or glycolic acid for at least two weeks before laser surgery. After the skin is resurfaced, it is important to closely follow post-op care and dressing instructions to minimize the chance of infection or scarring.

Healing of Laser Treated Skin

        Healing time for disappearance of redness following erbium laser treatment is typically two weeks with a maximum of eight weeks compared to four or ten weeks with CO2 laser treatment.

        Postoperative treatment includes cleansing the area and coverage with a moisturizer, bandage or some other wound care regimen, particularly during the first week. Within two weeks, the swelling largely resolves and the redness begins to fade to a color that can be easily controlled with cosmetics. Complete resolution of the redness may take several months. Occasionally, patients will develop irregular hyperpigmentation (brown spots) during their healing interval but this is typically self-limited and if it does not resolve spontaneously, the hyperpigmentation may be treated with a bleaching medication.

Lasers for Acne Scar Removal

        Acne scars can also be improved with the smoothing effects of the laser. The same smoothing technique is used as for wrinkle removal. Small scars will disappear and deeper scars will become less deep and less noticeable. In severe cases with very deep scars, minor surgery is used to reduce larger scars first and is then followed by laser treatment.

Chemical Peels

        Peels still remain one of the most effective techniques available for alleviating fine to moderate wrinkles, weathered skin, freckling, blotchy pigmentation, sun damage, age spots, mild acne scars, benign overgrowths of skin, flat warts  and shallow acne scars. It can also be very effective for superficial acne and skin problems associated with chicken pox and pigmentation problems. Although one peel can improve the appearance of the skin, a series of peels is often employed. Following treatment, new lesions or patches are less likely to appear.

        However, sags, bulges and more severe wrinkles do not respond well to peeling and may require other kinds of cosmetic surgical procedures, such as an eyelid lift or soft tissue filler.

        A chemical peel applies a controlled chemical burn to the top layers of your skin. Chemical peels are categorized into superficial, medium and deep peels depending upon the severity of the patient's wrinkles and the degree of sun damage present. The depth of the burn depends upon the concentration of acid that is used. The peel itself should take no more than 30 to 60 minutes and may be painful for the first few hours following the procedure. This pain is usually well controlled with oral pain medicines.

        After the peel, patients are usually sent home or to an outpatient nursing facility for a day or two. The skin will begin to peel 24 to 48 hours following the application of the acid. New skin will replace the peeled skin within seven to ten days. However, chemically peeled skin takes longer to look normal. A pink hue to the skin can be expected for six months, often necessitating blending with makeup.

        There can be significant benefit from one acid peel, however, up to six treatments may be recommended for maximum benefits.

Chemicals Used

        Glycolic acid is often used at concentrations of 20 to 70 percent in a series of 3 to 6 peels for the desired effect.

        TCA (trichloroacetic acid) is a very strong acid that is one of the most effective peeling chemicals.  TCA is used at concentrations from 15 to 35 percent. 20-25 percent TCA is a light peeling agent and if repeated every two to four weeks, can give the results of a deeper peel without the risk of scarring as sometimes seen with stronger agents. In addition, the peel stimulates new cells to grow thereby tightening the skin, which decreases wrinkling.

        Other acids such as salicylic acid, lactic acid, or carbolic acid and phenolic acid may also be used.

How Is the Peel Performed?

        Peels are performed as an outpatient in the doctor's office. A solution containing the chemical is applied to your skin. During the procedure, most patients experience a warm to somewhat hot sensation lasting about five to 10 minutes, followed by a stinging sensation. Most patients choose not to use any sedation or anesthesia. Deeper peels may require pain medication during or after the procedure.

        When a chemical peel is applied to the skin, it causes the top layers of cells to dry up and peel off over a period of several days. Medium-depth and deep peeling can sometimes result in swelling and blisters that may break, crust, turn brown, and peel off over a period of 7 to 14 days. Sometimes surgical tape may be placed on the treated skin. When the old skin has peeled off, it exposes a new layer of undamaged skin which has a smoother texture and more even color.

        Most people heal within 7 days after a peel. During the healing process there is no pain, but the skin looks as if it has had a severe sunburn. The skin becomes more sensitive to sunlight for at least 6-8 weeks after their peel. It is very important to protect the new skin with sunblockers, hats and the avoidance of strong sunlight.

        There is a small incidence of the reactivation of cold sores or Herpes simplex infection in patients with a history of fever blisters.

        Chemical peeling will not remove deep scars. Dermabrasion, punch grafting, punch elevation, scar excision, or soft tissue fillers may be much more effective for scars and should be discussed with your dermatologist.

Skin "Deep-Peeling" Disasters

        When deep skin peels are performed by poorly skilled persons, disasters can results. Because of this, many dermatologists are moving toward a series of milder skin peels rather than one deep peel. For example, the Mayo Clinic now often recommends a series of six peels to renew a skin area.

        The following are true examples of calls we get at Skin Biology:

     1. I had a acne mark on my check and the dermatologist tried a strong phenol peel which left the area scarred worse then ever. Then two more dermatologists re-peeled the check area and things only got worse. Now I have a deep, scarred depression in my check. As a result of these peels, I contracted a staphylococcus infection and am now on three different antibiotics to control the infection.

     2. I had a 35% TCA peel 4-5 weeks ago and was very much misled on the seriousness of this peel and the possible complications.  I am a young women with fair skin.  Dr. "X" of the, ""X" Skin Institute," did the procedure in a very uncontrolled manner.  The peel came out severely uneven.  The result is that the right side of my face, and parts of my nose seem to be forming raised and very red scars [...] it has still only been a month but the healing process has been so extreme and the unevenness so unbelievable -- I look like I went through a windshield.  What I am wondering is if there is anything I can do to speed up this healing process and what kind of hope do I have for looking "normal" in the future?

        Again, the best results with skin peels require highly skilled medical personnel using somewhat conservative and slower techniques. The "one peel to beauty" is often unsatisfactory.

Dermabrasion

        Dermabrasion resurfaces the texture of the skin by removing its top layers. The procedure is most often done on the face to remove skin damaged by acne scarring. It is also done to lessen the visibility of wrinkles, tattoos and various other skin lesions. All or a small portion of the face can be done. Blotchy brown spots that occur on the cheeks, temples or forehead also may be treated with the technique. Dermabrasion has much the same effect as a chemical peel.

        While dermabrasion is more than one hundred years old, dermabrasion has enjoyed a resurgence of popularity since the 1960s. The technique has been further refined over the last few decades.

What is Dermabrasion?

        Dermabrasion, or surgical skin peeling, is a surgical procedure in which the dermatologic surgeon removes or sands the skin with a rotary abrasive instrument which is either a wire brush or a diamond fraise to remove the upper layer of akin. This abrasive or peeling action evens out the skin, and a new layer of skin replaces the abraded skin. This leveling or smoothing of the surface skin which makes scars less noticeable is considered the best treatment for improving acne scars. Sometimes it is necessary to have a second procedure to get the maximum results.

        When dermabrasion was first developed, it was used predominantly to improve scars resulting from acne, chicken pox, accidents or other disease. Today, it is also used to treat other skin conditions, such as tattoos, age (liver) spots, and certain skin changes associated with chronic sun damage.

        Dermabrasion is performed in the dermatologic surgeon's office or in an outpatient surgical facility. Medication to relax the patient may be given prior to surgery. The area is thoroughly cleansed with an antiseptic cleansing agent. The area to be "sanded" is treated with a spray that freezes the skin. A high-speed rotary instrument with an abrasive wheel or brush removes or abrades the upper layers of the skin and improves irregularities in the skin surface. Soothing ointments and dressings are then applied.

        For a few days, the skin feels as though it has been severely sunburned. A scab normally forms on the treated area for five to seven days. When this comes off, the skin is healed but very pink. Makeup may be used to hide the pink skin.  Discoloration and swelling usually occur for two to three months while the skin is healing. In several months when the skin has faded, it may have a slightly different color, usually lighter. This is more likely to happen with dark complected people. If this occurs, it can be balanced with makeup.

        Medications may be prescribed to alleviate any discomfort the patient may have, but most people do not experience severe pain. Frequent showering and the application of emollients help speed the skin's recovery. Infection and excessive bleeding are rare and can be treated easily if they do occur. Scarring within the healed skin is rare.

        Generally, most people can resume their normal occupation in seven to ten days after dermabrasion. Patients are instructed to avoid unnecessary direct and indirect sunlight for three to six months after the procedure and to use a sunscreen on a regular basis when outdoors.

Potential Complications From Dermabrasion

        Some individuals have a propensity to develop increased or decreased pigment after dermabrasion treatment. Dermatologic surgeons can usually treat increased pigmentation with the use of certain bleaching creams. However, decreased pigmentation may be permanent.

        Rarely, one may develop thickened skin in certain areas after dermabrasion, similar to keloids to which some families may be prone. Several therapies, such as cortisone creams and injections, can be administered to treat this problem and help the skin return to normal.

        People who are prone to frequent herpes infections may require anti-viral medication to prevent the recurrence of fever blisters while the skin is healing from dermabrasion and to avoid the risk of the herpes spreading into the newly abraded skin.

        Dermabrasion cannot be expected to eliminate or improve all scars in all patients under all conditions. Some scars require the use of ancillary procedures to obtain the best results. These include careful surgical removal of the scars followed by small skin grafts or suturing. Dermabrasion is then used to smooth over these scars six to eight weeks later.



More specific information on copper peptides for post-procedure healing is at post procedure skin recovery.




"The Turn Back the Clock Doc", Loren Pickart has spent his life working on methods to reverse the effects of aging in the human body and is the discoverer of the human skin and tissue remodeling copper-peptide, GHK-Copper. Skin remodeling copper peptides are the body's natural signals that repair and restore damaged and aged tissue by (1) inducing strong anti-inflammatory actions (activate superoxide dismutase and decrease damaging actions of TGF-beta and interleukin-1), by (2) stimulating the removal of damaged and older skin by increasing the synthesis of metalloproteinases, and (3) by increasing the generation of new collagen, elastin, proteoglycans, and rebuilding the microcirculation and by increasing production of new skin cells. He and his wife, Charlene, worked to start ProCyte Corporation in 1985 to develop his first generation of GHK-Copper products and Skin Biology in 1994 to create a second generation of more effective, skin remodeling copper peptides.

Products based on Pickart's inventions and GHK-Copper have been marketed by AdviCare, American Crew, Amuchina (Europe), Atelier Esthetique, Bard Medical, BioPharm (Middle East), Creative Nail Design, Johnson & Johnson, Schering AG, Neutrogena, Osmotics, ProCyte, Sigmacon Medical Products (Canada) and Tanox Biosystems (Asia). These include products for Cosmetic Skin Renewal: Neutrogena Visibly Firm Night Cream®, Neutrogena Visibly Firm Eye Cream®, Neutrogena Visibly Firm Moisture Makeup®, Neutrogena Visibly Firm Eye Treatment Concealer®, Neutrogena Visibly Face Lotion®, Neutrogena Visibly Firm Body Lotion®, Visibly Firm Face Lotion SPF 20®, Blue Copper Firming Elasticity Repair®, Climate Extreme Body Repair with Copper Peptide®, Simple Solutions® products (Pure Copper Night Renewal®, Pure Copper Morning Dew®, Ultra Copper Firming Serum®, Pure Copper Eye Repair®, Men Pure Copper® After Shave Moisturizer, Men Pure Copper® Eye Repair), NextDerm Revitalizing Serum®, NextDerm Firming Cream, NextDerm Eye Lift Creme®, NextDerm Microdermabrasion Skin Polisher®, Blue Razor Aftershave®, Neova® Eye Therapy, Neova® Night Therapy Creme®, Neova® Day Therapy, Neova® Body Therapy Lotion®, Neova® Cuticle Therapy, Neova® Antioxidant Therapy Serum with GHK Copper Peptide Complex(TM),  Neova® Cuticle Therapy,  Neova® Therapy Cleansing Bar, Neova® Therapy Mattifying Serum, Neova® Therapy Copper Moisture Mask®, Neova® After Shave Therapy, Neova® Body Scrub, Neova Creme De La Copper®, Neova® Therapy Dual Action Lotion; Nu Glow® Copper Peptide Serum, Nu Glow® Copper Peptide Eye Therapy, Nu Glow® DayTime Therapy, Nu Glow® Copper Peptide NightTime Therapy; for Veterinary Wound Healing: Iamin-Vet Skin Care Gel® and Iamin-Vet Wound Cleanser®. for Wound Healing: Iamin Gel Wound Dressing®, Iamin Impregnated Gauze Dressing®, Iamin Wet Dressing (copper-saline)®, Iamin-2 Hydrating Gel®, and Iamin Wound Cleanser®; for Hair Transplantation and improving the success of hair transplants: GraftCyte® Advanced Hair Restoration Technology: GraftCyte® Concentrated Spray, GraftCyte® Moist Dressings, GraftCyte® Hydrating Mist, GraftCyte® Post-Surgical Shampoo and Conditioner, and GraftCyte® Head Start Single Patient Pack; for Stimulation of Hair Growth and Hair Vitality: American Crew Revitalize Daily Shampoo®, American Crew Revitalize Spray Solution®, American Crew Revitalize Daily Conditioner®, American Crew Revitalizing Serum®, American Crew Revitalize Daily Moisture Shampoo®;  Tricomin® Solution Follicle Therapy Spray, Tricomin® Revitalizing Shampoo, Tricomin® Restructuring Conditioner and Tricomin® Conditioning Shampoo; and for Post-Surgical Skin Healing after laser resurfacing, dermabrasion, and chemical peels: Complex Cu3® Intensive Repair Cream, Complex Cu3® Hydrating Gel, Complex Cu3® Post Laser Lotion, and Complex Cu3® Gentle Face Cleanser.  In addition, human clinical studies of Pickart's inventions for bone healing and healing of intestinal irritations (Inflammatory Bowel Disease or Crohn's disease) have given positive results. He received his Ph.D. in Biochemistry from the University of California at San Francisco. For details on copper-peptide tissue remodeling - see: Copper-Peptide Regeneration.


Skin Biology's mission is develop safe and effective products that help remove the effects of aging and damage on skin and hair and restore them to a younger and healthier condition. The products are based on the skin's natural molecules and remodeling processes.


Disclaimer: Information in this book is presented in a summary formand should not be used as a substitute for regular consultations or visits with your family physician or other health care provider.


Iamin Gel Wound Dressing®, Iamin Impregnated Gauze Dressing®, OsmoCyte® PCA Pillow, Iamin Wet Dressing (copper-saline)®, Iamin-2 Hydrating Gel®, Iamin-Vet®, GraftCyte® Advanced Hair Restoration Technology, GraftCyte® Moist Dressings, GraftCyte® Hydrating Mist, GraftCyte® Post-Surgical Shampoo & Conditioner, GraftCyte® Head Start Single Patient Pack, Tricomin® Solution Follicle Therapy Spray, Tricomin® Revitalizing Shampoo, Tricomin® Restructuring Conditioner and Tricomin® Conditioning Shampoo, Complex Cu3® Intensive Tissue Repair Cream, Complex Cu3® Hydrating Gel, Complex Cu3® Gentle Face Cleanser, Iamin-IB® , Neova®, are trademarks of ProCyte Corporation and marketed by ProCyte and Bard Medical. Blue Copper Firming Elasticity Repair®, Climate Extreme Body Repair®, and Blue Razor Aftershave®, are  products and trademarks of Osmotics Inc. Propecia® is a trademark of Merck Pharmaceuticals. . Biopeptide-CL is a trademark of Sederma. A-Copper Moisturizer is a trademark of Serious Skin Care. Kinerase(TM) is a product and trademark of ICN Corporation. Neutrogena Visibly Firm Night Cream®, and  Neutrogena Visibly Firm Eye Cream® are products and trademarks of the Neutrogena Company.

Aging Reversal Sciences, Skin Biology, CP Serum, CP Night Eyes, CP Feet, CP Nails, BioHeal, Folligen, TriReduction, Calypso's Oil, Protect & Restore, Copper Beauty, and "Copper Peptides - Your Skin's 911 Call!" are trademarks of Skin Biology, Inc.


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Copyright 1998-2008 by Dr. Loren Pickart. All rights reserved. No reproduction without written permission.
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