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Conditioners to Re-glue Hair Cuticles
The
outer layer of hair forms cuticles somewhat like fish scales and is shown
in the picture to the left. A healthy strand of hair has an outer layer
of scales that are laying close above each other. If scales are laying
flat, the hair will look shiny, and a comb or brush will glide smoothly.
The cuticles are glued down by mixtures of polypeptides - similar to the
yellow liquid collagen glues used by schoolchildren (such as LePage's Glue).
Shampoos and soaps remove the glue(polypeptides) and loosen the cuticle.
High quality conditioners add small peptides back into the cuticle to glue
it into place again. A small amount of pantothenic acid (vitamin B-5) is
also used which helps with the glue process. If the cuticle stays open
it can start a tear (see second photo at the left) in the hair shaft that
ultimately leads to breakage of the hair shaft (see third photo at the
left). High quality conditioners also help glue together split hair ends.
The longer you leave the conditioner on the hair, the better it smoothes
out the hair cuticle. Some manufacturers say only to condition for a few
seconds, but longer is better.
Many conditioners today
contain botanicals and herbal extracts such as extracts of juniper berries
and buckhorn leaves and so forth. These herbal extracts interfere with
the glue process and reduce the protective effects of the hair conditioners.
Combs with unpolished teeth, sharp hair clamps and tight elastic
bands can also disrupt the hair scales and produce damage. With such a
damage, the strand will rip more easily, the opened scales do not allow
other strands to glide over as smooth as before, which can result in tangles.
Conditioners should be
at a low pH of 4.0 to 4.5. The hair proteins remain very strong at a low
pH and shampoos - with their higher pH - should be completely rinsed out
of hair. Higher pH's start unraveling the protein strands which loosen and
break the hair. A small amount of fat is added to give the hair a better
shine.
Hot
oil treatment conditioners are the latest marketing ploy from the
cosmetic companies. The idea dates back to the 1950's when hot oil treatments
were first marketed by Alberto Culver. The basic idea is that the application
of heat drives the conditioners - oils, peptides, etc. - deeper into the
hair shaft and the hair looks better for a short time. However, the high
heat - about 250 degree F. from a hot air dryer - will ultimately damage
the hair follicles - which cannot take heat much about 120 degrees F. -
and the follicles will produce less hair and thinner hair.
Brushing Hair
Brushing is an essential part of healthy hair. Brushing helps keep the scalp healthy and improves the blood circulation which feeds the hair roots (follicles). It also helps distributes the natural protective fats along the length of the hair shafts. These fats serve as lubricants that allow smoother combing without breaking the hair shafts.
Morning brushing is best with a natural hair bristle brush which is similar to your hair structure and less likely to produce tangles on long hair. The brush should have a wooden base that reduces static electricity. If combing, start with a wide tooth tortoise shell comb. Never use a metal or rubber comb.
For brushing, stand with feet a little apart and bend down from your waist
until the hair falls in a curtain before your face. Then brush your hair
gently, starting from the hair roots at the nape of your neck and moving
toward the end of the hair. Follow each brush stroke with a stoke from
the open palm of your other hand to help counteract the build up of static
electricity. Slowly build up your brushing to 50 strokes a day.
Ordering
Information for All Skin Biology Products and Secure Order Form
Products based on GHK-Cu are marketed by AdviCare, American Crew, Amuchina (Europe), Atelier Esthetique, Bard Medical, BioPharm (Middle East), Creative Nail Design, Johnson & Johnson, Schering AG, Neutrogena, Osmotics, ProCyte, Sigmacon Medical Products (Canada) and Tanox Biosystems (Asia). These include products for Cosmetic Skin Renewal: Neutrogena Visibly Firm Night Cream®, Neutrogena Visibly Firm Eye Cream®, Neutrogena Visibly Firm Moisture Makeup®, Neutrogena Visibly Firm Eye Treatment Concealer®, Neutrogena Visibly Face Lotion®, Neutrogena Visibly Firm Body Lotion®, Visibly Firm Face Lotion SPF 20®, Blue Copper Firming Elasticity Repair®, Climate Extreme Body Repair with Copper Peptide®, Simple Solutions Pure Copper Skincare products (Pure Copper Night Renewal®, Pure Copper Morning Dew®, Ultra Copper Firming Serum®, Pure Copper Eye Repair®), Blue Razor Aftershave®, Neova® Eye Therapy, Neova® Night Therapy Creme®, Neova® Day Therapy, Neova® Body Therapy Lotion®, Neova® Cuticle Therapy, Neova® Antioxidant Therapy Serum with GHK Copper Peptide Complex(TM), Neova® Cuticle Therapy, Neova® Therapy Cleansing Bar, Neova® Therapy Mattifying Serum, Neova® Therapy Copper Moisture Mask®, Neova® After Shave Therapy and Neova® Body Scrub, for Veterinary Wound Healing: Iamin-Vet Skin Care Gel® and Iamin-Vet Wound Cleanser®. for Wound Healing: Iamin Gel Wound Dressing®, Iamin Impregnated Gauze Dressing®, Iamin Wet Dressing (copper-saline)®, Iamin-2 Hydrating Gel®, and Iamin Wound Cleanser®; for Hair Transplantation and improving the success of hair transplants: GraftCyte® Advanced Hair Restoration Technology: GraftCyte® Concentrated Spray, GraftCyte® Moist Dressings, GraftCyte® Hydrating Mist, GraftCyte® Post-Surgical Shampoo and Conditioner, and GraftCyte® Head Start Single Patient Pack; for Stimulation of Hair Growth and Hair Vitality: American Crew Revitalize Daily Shampoo®, American Crew Revitalize Spray Solution®, American Crew Revitalize Daily Conditioner®, American Crew Revitalizing Serum®, American Crew Revitalize Daily Moisture Shampoo®; Tricomin® Solution Follicle Therapy Spray, Tricomin® Revitalizing Shampoo, Tricomin® Restructuring Conditioner and Tricomin® Conditioning Shampoo; and for Post-Surgical Skin Healing after laser resurfacing, dermabrasion, and chemical peels: Complex Cu3® Intensive Repair Cream, Complex Cu3® Hydrating Gel, Complex Cu3® Post Laser Lotion, and Complex Cu3® Gentle Face Cleanser. In addition, human clinical studies of Pickart's inventions for bone healing and healing of intestinal irritations (Inflammatory Bowel Disease or Crohn's disease) have given positive results. He received his Ph.D. in Biochemistry from the University of California at San Francisco. For details on copper-peptide tissue remodeling - see: www.skinbiology.com/copperpeptideregeneration.html.
Skin Biology is currently patenting and test marketing various products built around his new copper-peptides that are designed to possess greatly enhanced potency, strong breakdown resistance (and can be used with skin exfoliating hydroxy acids for more rapid skin renewal and for scar reduction), a longer duration of action, and very high adherence to skin. The first generation products designed around GHK-Copper performed well in many controlled tests; however, they failed in FDA clinical trials on the healing of difficult-to-heal human wounds. Dr. Pickart is of the opinion that this second generation of copper peptides should have a higher chance of success in difficult clinical trials.
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