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| Copper Peptides used with in combination: | How to Use |
Effects |
Cautions |
| Low strength hydroxy
acids
such as 7 to 15% glycolic acid or 1 to 2% salicylic acid |
1. Hydroxy acid slowly
dissolves older skin and skin lesions
2. Copper peptides keep irritation down and help skin repair |
Much faster skin remodeling | Too much hydroxy acid can be irritating |
| Strong hydroxy acids
such as
30 to 70% glycolic acid or 17% salicylic acid (Deep peels) |
1. Strong acid peels away skin blemishes and scars | Often very rapid skin remodeling and scar removal | Can be very irritating, need an expert to apply hydroxys |
| Retinoic acid
(Retin-A) |
1. Usually mixed with a copper peptide product then applied | Users report good skin effects without redness and irritation | |
| Micro-Dermabrasion | 1. CP Serum applied after dermabrasion | Faster healing, less scarring | |
| Lasers | 1. CP Serum applied after laser procedure | Faster healing, less scarring |
| Certain types of copper-peptide
complexes have a broad range of tissue regenerative and remodeling actions.
The only types of copper peptides complexes that have been proven to have
these actions are those invented by Dr. Pickart after he started ProCyte
Corporation (now licensed by several companies such as Neutrogena) and
Pickart’s newer inventions from Skin Biology. At Skin Biology, we tested
over 100 promising copper-complexes before finding the exceptional regenerative
actions of a specific fraction of soy protein peptides.
The new breakdown-resistant copper peptides from Skin Biology are designed to give a longer acting effect and stronger skin regeneration. Because of their exceptional stability, they can be used with hydroxy acids for skin renewal. Because of a number of patents on the uses of various copper peptides held by ProCyte Corporation and others by Skin Biology Incorporated, some cosmetic companies have resorted to using unpatented and untested copper peptides or other copper complexes. Not all copper-peptides and copper-complexes have these actions. A number of companies sell copper complexes claiming to help skin but there is no credible scientific evidence (such as peer-reviewed publications in dermatology journals) that these complexes give effective skin regeneration. We have tested many of these products and found only marginal activity at best. Most had no activity and some actually inhibited skin renewal. Some are made with yeast and bacteria peptides that may cause allergic reactions in sensitive persons. |
Other companies have jumped on the peptide bandwagon with single peptides but these appear to be similar in action to scar producing peptides that were extensively studied for potential uses as wound healing drugs but failed due to excessive scar formation.
For more information on these comparisons, please visit www.skinbiology.com/comparingcopperpeptides.html
Copper peptides first arrived on the market in 1997 and are the most effective skin regeneration and skin remodeling products (removal of blemishes and scars) that are readily available. There are several of such copper-peptide skin renewal creams available today. Two based on Dr. Pickart's 1st Generation of tissue regenerating copper peptides that contain GHK-Cu are (1) ProCyte Corporation's Neova line at www.procyte.com and (2) Neutrogena's Visibly Firm line that is available at many drugstores and cosmetic counters. These products are based on discoveries and patents by Dr. Pickart between 1983 and 1988. The third (3) choice is based on Pickart's 2nd Generation of copper peptides such as Skin Biology's Protect & Restore and CP lines that are stronger and composed of high-potency breakdown-resistant, long-acting copper peptides. Pickart developed these more effective copper peptides between 1996 and 2000.
All these creams work in fundamentally the same way. Copper-peptides help activate the natural human biological processes that rebuild and renew skin, nails and hair. This produces a skin, nail and hair biology more like that when you were young. Clinical studies have found copper-peptides to be more effective in restoring the skin's collagen than Vitamin C or retinoic acid (retin-A). Copper-peptides also activate the skin's system that removes damaged collagen and elastin from the skin and from scar tissue.
The copper-peptide products all are exceptionally safe and have passed many rigorous safety tests. When copper-peptides are applied to the skin only a very small fraction of the copper - about 0.1% - actually penetrates into the skin but this is sufficient to accelerate the skin's natural regenerative mechanisms.
Recommended Copper Peptide Products
Skin Biology's Protect & Restore
Protect & Restore is a skin product that mimics the natural processes that trigger skin repair. Its' skin regeneration and anti-inflammatory actions on damaged skin have been demonstrated by four independent, placebo-controlled studies at the University of California at San Francisco. (See details below).
Protect & Restore is a water and oil cream
that both counters the irritation problem and speeds skin renewal. Four
independent, placebo-controlled clinical studies have established Protect
& Restore's unique ability to reduce irritation while accelerating
skin renewal, producing a firmer and more elastic skin (List in
chart below). No other skin repair cream has this clinically-proven record
of both non-irritation and proven skin repair.
The use of Protect & Restore is often combined with a skin exfoliating cream or retinoic acid to both exfoliate skin and stimulate skin repair. Dermal collagen and elastin (which degrade during aging) is rebuilt leaving a firmer, more elastic skin. The water-holding proteins in the skin (the proteoglycans) are increased, resulting in a moist, naturally hydrated skin. The blood microcirculation is rebuilt, giving the skin a better supply of nutrients and improving skin color. Oxidative damage to the skin is reduced as the nutritional copper ion in Protect & Restore activates the skin's naturally-occurring anti-oxidant enzyme, superoxide dismutase, which combats free-radical damage.
For more details on Protect & Restore www.skinbio.com/protect&restore.html.
Advantages of Protect & Restore
P&R Versions for Specific Skin Types and Stage of Life
Because of personal skin variations and the changes of skin with time, P&R is formulated in various versions. When we are age 20, our skin has too much oil but by age 45 our skin becomes drier as skin lipids are reduced. P&R2 is best for persons under age 30 or with rosacea. P&R 3 contains a high retinol concentration and oil of lavender. Younger women or persons with rosacea should start with version 2. However, many women, especially over age 30, have found the strongest P&R 3 which has the highest concentration of retinol to be the best at improving facial appearance and skin tone. Some find P&R No. 3 to clear chronic cystic acne in a few weeks. However, in some younger women (about 7%), P&R 3 may cause skin outbreaks which could be due to the retinol or an overall stimulation of the skin’s metabolism.
Natural Multiple Repair Stimulators - Protect & Restore is an extension of earlier GHK-Cu-based work on tissue regeneration, but uses a more biological method to renew the skin. Research on skin renewal indicates that optimal regeneration is obtained only when there are multiple signals for renewal. Protect & Restore contains copper ion plus a mixture of numerous different peptide fragments that are generated by natural proteolytic enzymes (as happens after skin damage). This produces numerous copper-peptide complexes in a more natural manner to assist and optimize the skin's natural regenerative processes. See Copper-Peptide Tissue Regeneration
Rebuilds Protective Acid Mantle - Protect & Restore is formulated to help rebuild the protective acid mantle of the skin that soaps and cleansers strip away. The acid mantle is the combination of sebum (oils) and perspiration on the skin's surface that protects the skin and renders the skin less vulnerable to damage and attack by environmental factors such as sun and wind and less prone to dehydration. The mantle also has strong anti-oxidant properties that protect sebum from air oxidation. Sebum is naturally white but air oxidation turns it black. This is why "whitehead comedos" turn into "blackhead comedos".
Normal skin is somewhat acidic and in the pH range of 4.2 to 5.6. It varies from one part of the body to another and, in general, the pH of a man's skin is lower (more acid) than that of a woman's. The acid mantle inhibits the growth of foreign bacteria and fungi and the skin remains healthier, and has fewer blemishes. Acne, allergies and other skin problems become more severe when the skin becomes more alkaline.
Protect & Restore contains high levels of lipids such as squalane, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate and stearic acid that closely resembles the fats of the acid mantle. Furthermore, they contain antioxidants such as allantoin, aloe, vitamin E and retinol to aid the mantles protective anti-oxidant properties. Squalane is the skin's most important protective lipid and declines from levels of 11% in teenager's skin to less than 5% in adults after age 20.
Use of this system helps avoid the chronic irritation, itching, burning
and redness produced by exfoliating agents alone such as Retin-A or hydroxy
acids (AHA's and BHA's). All Skin Biology products are made from plant
materials. (Retin-A is a trademark and product of Johnson & Johnson).
CP Serum is a water-based lipid-free product. Many clients use CP Serum on oily skin areas such as the T-Zone and Protect & Restore on dryer skin areas. Many users report that it reduces skin oil in the T-Zone.
Often acne is reduced or eliminated by washing the face (as with a pad) with 2% salicylic acid morning and evening and follow this with CP Serum in the evening.
Persons with rosacea often see improvement with CP Serum.
It is at www.skinbio.com/cpserum.htm.
A Safer Day Cover with Skin Remodeling
Protect & Restore Day Cover
is a skin repair cream that helps protect against sunlight (ultraviolet
radiation) and environmental pollution. The cream uses many natural absorbers
of ultraviolet radiation and does not contain any dangerous sunscreen chemicals.
It also can be used under Color Cosmetics to reduce skin damage caused
by color cosmetics.
P&R Day Cover is designed as a daytime replacement for sun protective
creams with dangerous chemical sunscreens. This cream contains a high level
of natural ultraviolet absorbers such as squalane, peptides, and nucleotides
that have been protecting mammalian skin for over 100 million years. In
addition, the Day Cover contains titanium dioxide, a safe reflective
sun blocker.
P&R Day Cover is built around:
1. Using the skin's natural sun blockers
2. Using additional safe and reflective titanium dioxide
3. Including broad spectrum natural anti-oxidants to neutralize oxygen radicals
4. Helping to rebuild the the skin's acid mantle
5. Including P&R's clinically-proven skin repair actions
6. Avoiding the use of irritants, alcohol, and harsh chemicals

This is for general use
of the body. The lotion helps renew and protect your skin. The product
is somewhat similar to P&R Day Cover but is easier to spread and contains
no titanium dioxide. It comes in a generous 8 ounce bottle and contains
copper-peptides and retinol for skin renewal, plus protective lipids and
anti-oxidants. See: http://www.skinbio.com/bodyrenewallotion.html
This products have very strong skin repair properties. It is very similar to the strongest copper peptide cream that we had tested in studies at UCSF Dermatology Department.
Rub a very small amount of the cream or serum into scars. Do not over use. The cream is designed to have strong and selective uptake into scars and skin lesions but this may make them more apparent as the copper stains the scars and lesions. So it is best to use this cream at night. Be cautious if using it on your face because of potential staining.
Surprisingly, a number of our clients are using these products for facial care. Super Cop is often used as an eye cream and Super CP Serum over the entire face. But start these products lightly.
See www.scar-reduction.com/supercop.html
ProCyte's Neova and Neutrogena's Visibly Firm
ProCyte Corporation sells a number of gels and creams for skin treatment after laser resurfacing, dermabrasion, and chemical peels such as Neova, Complex Cu3™ Intensive Tissue Repair Creme, Complex Cu3™ Hydrating Gel, and Complex Cu3™ Gentle Face Cleanser. These products are based on the Iamin skin healing technology discovered by Dr. Loren Pickart (who also founded ProCyte Corporation in 1985). This type of product has been shown to have positive effects on collagen deposition, skin tensile strength, angiogenesis, and superoxide dismutase activity.
These products are sold to enhance healing, reduce skin crusting after repair procedures, and help minimize discomfort. The products are applied during the first 24 hours post surgery, and then as needed for the first 10-14 days post procedure.
Neutrogena sells a Visibly Firm product line based on GHK-copper. Neutrogena presented several papers on these creams at the American Academy of Dermatology in 2002. Most of these results were known and published in 1988 by Pickart and colleagues. Summaries of these abstracts are at Copper-Peptide Tissue Regeneration.
P66 A Clinical Evaluation of a Copper-Peptide Containing Liquid Foundation and Cream Concealer Designed for Improving Skin Condition Yohini Appa, PhD; Neutrogena Corporation, Los Angeles, CA; Thomas Stephens, PhD; TJ Stephens & Associates, Inc, Dallas, TX; Sylvia Barkovic; Neutrogena Corporation, Los Angeles, CA; Mary Beth Finkey, MS; Neutrogena Corporation, Los Angeles, CA
P67 The Effect of Tripeptide to Copper Ratio in Two Copper Peptide Creams on Photoaged Facial Skin James J Leyden, MD; University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, PA; Gary Grove, PhD; KGL, Inc/Skin Study Center, Broomall, PA; Sylvia Barkovic; Neutrogena Corporation, Los Angeles, CA; Yohini Appa, PhD; Neutrogena Corporation, Los Angeles, CA
P68 Skin Care Benefits of Copper Peptide Containing Facial Cream James J Leyden, MD; University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, PA; Thomas Stephens, PhD; Thomas J Stephens & Associates, Inc, Dallas, TX; Mary Beth Finkey, MS; Neutrogena Corporation, Los Angeles, CA; Sylvia Barkovic; Neutrogena Corporation, Los Angeles, CA
P69 Skin Care Benefits of Copper Peptide Containing Eye Creams James J Leyden, MD; University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, PA; Thomas Stephens, PhD; Thomas J Stephens & Associates, Inc, Dallas, TX; Mary Beth Finkey, MS; Neutrogena Corporation, Los Angeles, CA; Sylvia Barkovic; Neutrogena Corporation, Los Angeles, CA
P72 Requirement of Copper and Tripeptide Glycyl-L-Histidyl-L-Lysine (GHK) Complex Formation for Collagen Synthesis Activity in Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts Thierry Oddos, PhD; Johnson & Johnson Consumer, Val de Reuil, France; Aurelie Jumeau-Lafond; Johnson & Johnson Consumer, Val de Reuil, France; Gerd Ries, PhD; Johnson & Johnson, Dusseldorf, Germany
Other Copper Peptides
For
more information on these comparisons, please visit www.skinbiology.com/comparingcopperpeptides.html
|
|
Skin Remodeling Copper-Peptides | Retinoic acid
(Retin-A, Renova) |
Vitamin C |
| Reducing wrinkles | Yes, four recent abstracts of studies | Several positive studies published | Minor improvements |
| Skin color tone | Very good tone "glow" | Often reddish, leathery appearance | Fair tone |
| New collagen | Yes, significant in 70% of users in one month | Yes, significant in 40% of users in one month | Yes, significant in 50% of users in one month |
| New elastin | Yes | Yes | Minor improvement |
| Increase water-holding proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans | Yes | Yes | No |
| Repair skin barrier | Yes | No, actually degrades skin barrier | No |
| Improve capillary circulation | Yes | Yes | No |
| Activate metalloproteinases to remove damaged proteins | Yes | No, Actually increases production of scar forming factor TGF-beta | No |
| Causes irritation | No | Yes, strong irritant | No |
| Anti-inflammatory | Yes | No | No |
| Anti-oxidant | Yes, activates superoxide dismutase in skin | No | Yes, vitamin C acts as anti-oxidant |
| Used for clinical skin repair? | Yes, for wound healing and dermatological skin repair | Yes, for skin renewal and anti-acne | No, effects are too minor |
A clinical study which compared the effect on the skin's production of collagen after using creams containing copper-peptides, vitamin C, or retinoic acid (retin-A) was published by researchers in the Dermatology Department at UMDNJ - Robert Wood Johnson Medical School (Abulghani et al 1998). Twenty volunteers applied the various creams to their thighs daily for one month. New collagen production was determined by studying skin biopsy samples using immunohistological techniques.
The study found, that after one month, copper-peptides had the most significant effect on collagen production. Significant increases in collagen production were found in 70% of the persons treated with copper-peptide creams, 50% of the persons treated with the vitamin C cream, and 40% of the persons treated with retinoic acid.
Significant wrinkle reduction is still difficult. Many products are sold for the reduction of wrinkles but effects are temporary. Keep in mind that a piece of tape on your skin for a day will produce a temporary wrinkle reduction. There have been several successful studies on significant reduction of major wrinkles with retinoic acid. Procyte and Neutrogena have announced successful studies on wrinkle reduction with copper-peptides. There are no published studies on significant wrinkle reduction with vitamin C despite heavy sales of the product for seven years.
Abulghani el al 1998 - Abulghani, Shirin, Morales-Tapia, Sherr, Solodkina, Robertson, and Gottlieb, J. Invest. Derm. 110(4), page 686, 1998.
Alain et al 1999 - Alain, Monier, Emonard, Gillery, Birembaut, Homebeck and Maquart, Expression and activation of matrix metalloproteinases in wounds: Modulation by the tripeptide-copper complex glycyl-l-histidyl-l-lysine-cu2+, J. Invest. Dermat. 112: 957-964.